Thursday, July 02, 2009

Nostalgic for Rath

The Rath yatra festival came and went this year without most of us coming to know of it. My friends and I often talk of the happy childhoods we had, despite the absence - or perhaps because of it? - of cable TV, the Internet, reality shows and malls; and I realised sadly that the total disappearance of rath from the lives of people symbolises the passing of a way of life that was so much a part of our growing-up years.

As children, we didn't care much about the giant rath being pulled out of the Jagannath temple in Puri; what was important was us dragging our little rath models, with tiny idols of Jagannath, Balaram and Subhadra ensconced inside, down the rutted lanes of our neighbourhoods, a fun evening with friends and sweets and fried papad before us. The excitement began with the onset of the monsoons, and when the first delicate white flowers known as furush made their appearance in our garden, my happiness knew no bounds. And then the first rath models began to be seen in the market - they were rickety wooden affairs, hand-painted in bright colours, and in various sizes - little ones, almost as tall as I was when I got my first rath; others were taller, with two to four vertical compartments built into them. I still remember how proud I felt when I was considered old - and tall! - enough to be bought a 'three-storeyed' rath; and how carefully I placed my little idols, one in each compartment, with a tiny plate of sweets in the topmost 'storey'.

School gave over by 1 PM that day, after the morning classes; the pleasure of a half-day was heightened by the anticipation of decorating our raths at home, readying them to be taken out later, towards evening. I'd pester my mother and Didi to start helping me cover every inch of the rath, barring the front and the top, with strands of white furush and leafy stalks immediately after lunch; sweets would be bought from the closest shop and arranged on the tiny plates my mother had kept ready; and all the while I would be driving everyone crazy, blowing on the 'bhyapoo' - a long pipe-like object made of banana leaves with a plastic cone stuck at the top which, when blown into, made an infernal, ear-splitting noise, anathema to adult ears, but music to ours. By 4 PM my friends would be banging on our door, and out I'd scamper, the rope tied to the rath front clutched in my little hand, and off we'd go, importantly dragging our raths behind us, blowing on the bhyapoos and talking incessantly. Frequent stops had to be made to set our raths right - the ramshackle wooden structures and rutted roads meant that every five minutes, someone's rath would topple over. We'd meet other kids, look derisively at their raths and their decorations; neighbourhood adults would stop us to tell us how beautiful our structures looked; the older boys would find ways to distract us and steal the sweets so lovingly placed inside (running away before we could discover their perfidy, and before the consequent wails brought concerned, yet amused, parents out to refill those plates). By 5.30 it would start to get dark and we'd be called in - but then my father would carry my rath up to our large terrace, and I'd pull it around, with Sheru, our Alsatian, loping along, trying to get at the idols and sweets inside.

I always refused to take off the 'decorations' till the leaves and flowers had dried, clinging on to the festival for as long as I was able to; and then the rath and idols would be wrapped up carefully and stored in the loft, where it would remain for the next one year.

Children don't know what rath is any more - and I suspect that if they did, they'd find the idea of pulling a rickety wooden toy down the streets both embarrassing and ridiculous. Colourful raths are no longer to be seen in markets or on streets. The furush flowers sway gently in the breeze, but no one picks them any more to adorn little raths. The defeaning bhyapoos have fallen silent. And when they did, a part of childish innocence and fun was lost forever.

15 comments:

Unknown said...

Lovely description of, to me, a totally alien festival. The only rath yatras in my memory banks are LK Advani's infuriating crosscountry marathons, so it's a relief to know that there exists a benign one that has children as the charioteers and sweets, not trishuls, as freight. How I wish I hadn't missed out on this romp during my childhood.

COMPOS MENTIS said...

o pro, this was such a lovely read. took me back a long, long way in time and now i have such lovely memories to recall. yes, the floodgates...they are a open!

A very cool cat said...

Thank you both so much!

K - please don't desecrate my memories by talking about L.K. Advani and his insane rath yatra!! But am glad you enjoyed it - and now you'll have visions of happy kids when the word 'rath' pops into your head. I think this version of the festival was pretty unique to Cal - I doubt any probashi Bong children ever experienced this.

CM - I was hoping you'd read this, as you'd really understand, having been there, done that! And weren't those half-days fun?? About as much fun as heading to school on one rainy morning, to be met halfway down by another school bus, going the opposite way, with kids hanging out of the windows yelling 'Rainy day, rainy day! Chuti hoye geche!' :D

Thinking Cramps said...

Probashi Bong child reporting in - yes, I had no idea something like this happened in all neighborhoods till I read this. With us it was more the collection of donations to make little 'jhankis' for Janmashtami, the excitement of going to watch Ravan burn, usually a spectacle that filled up the hours between the truck leaving for the 'bhaashaan' and the 'shantir jol' coming back, the candles for Diwali...but yes, none of that has the same texture any more...so I can completely understand your nostalgia.

This was a beautiful read. Made me feel like a child again, where a single day could take on such significance as to necessitate anticipation, tears and incredible joy.

Shantanu Dhankar said...

I enjoyed this one very much...Kinda got me thinking about my own childhood pranks. damn! now I feel like writing about them too

Poonam Tanmayo said...

hmmmmnnn another beautiful glimpse of the book I'm talking about

A very cool cat said...

Thinking Cramps, Shantanu, Poonam, thanks! :)

Thinking Cramps - No, I'm not surprised you didn't know about this - I'd like to know where this festival originated, though, and why it used to be such a big deal in Bengal. And I remember those jhankis at janmashtami too - 'jhulon', we used to call it, and a little village used to be created with sand, and little idols ... of course our cats mistook the sand heaps for something else entirely, but - let's not go there! Our childhoods were such a happy, uncomplicated time - I wish I could recapture those feelings.

Shantanu - so write, then! Would love to read about your childhood. And this is one way of immortalising them.

Poonam - thanks for seeing a book in my sporadic ramblings! :)

Mukta Dutta said...

That was succch a beautifully written post Pro.

Ron said...

Oh my. This brought back almost forgotten memories. I managed to set fire to my rath one unfortunate year...can't quite remember how. Fun times really.

A very cool cat said...

Thanks, Mukta!

Ron - thanks so much for visiting, and for your comment! :) Yep, that was another problem with those old wooden raths - they were a fire hazard. Which was why lighting dhoop kathis was strictly forbidden!

Mukta Dutta said...

May i write something totally off track?
i just visited ur blog to see if anything was new. And i noticed the year wise listing of your posts. And i noticed the list starts from 2005. And i remembered i was around when u became a blogger. Pro how did those years between 2005 and 2009 just fly by!!!!

A very cool cat said...

I know, Mukta - when you put it that way, it makes me realise just how much time has gone by - and yet, when I think back on those days, the memories are still so vivid! I can still remember that dusty little room of ours at the CWDS, the year planner we put up with our birthdays marked, Babu and his tea, our endless conversations .... I didn't post very much the first couple of years, due to various upheavals, all of which you were privy to - trying to be more regular now!

But so glad you're still around, passage of time notwithstanding! :)

Kavita said...

who is didi pots? yes... like any other probashi, i haven't experienced this one either. but you've really described it so beautifully. yes i think the innocense of being out on the streats dragging something inane which meant the world to you.. those days are long over!

A very cool cat said...

Hey Kavs, thanks for reading. Didi comes from the village my dad hails from, Taki (I've done posts on the village previously, if you're interested), and she's been with us ever since I was born - she brought me up with my mom, has looked after me all my life (and continues to do so), and is one of the people I love most.

Childhood used to equal innocence - I feel really depressed thinking those days are gone.

Vishnu Kumar said...

Nice post about rath yatra.